The Test Kitchen | By Eugene | Monday, 05 March 2012
The Test Kitchen | This is a first! Well, for me at least. I’m writing a “review” on a restaurant – although I have never actually eaten there! Bear with me for 3 minutes though, as I do feel that the points I’m about to raise are relevant.
My wife and I consider ourselves to be wanna-be foodies. Eating out (fine dining) is what we do, what we love, what gives us pleasure in life (no, we are not fat – running is our other “indulgence”!). Is fine dining overrated? Now and then, but most of the time it’s magical. Are those restaurants overpriced? Probably, but how do you put a price on something you cannot experience anywhere else? We have eaten at all the "Top 10” restaurants (and have also added a couple of international heavyweights to our repertoire). All except this one – The Test Kitchen.
“Why then, if you are such self proclaimed foodies, have you not been to the Test Kitchen?” A very good question my dear reader. “The chef and restaurant are consistently in the top 10! This should be your Utopia!”. “We know, we know”, my wife and I proclaim! Well, the answer is simpler than you might think ...........
We simply cannot get in!
On three occasions now, after trying to book for dinner (more than a month in advance), we have been slapped on the wrist with a “How dare you- The audacity- Everybody who is anybody should know that we are always fully booked at least two months in advance!” response. Well, to be fair, those weren’t the exact words (and not Luke’s), but anyone with an IQ slightly north of 70 can read between those lines! Two months? Really? I appreciate that the Test Kitchen is a small venue, but more than two months?! Many multiple Michelin star restaurants do not have waiting lists half that long!
“Well, if you feel that is unreasonable why don’t you take your business elsewhere then?” might be your next logical question. The answer to that, my dear friends, is however not so simple. It’s because my wife and I still fondly reminisce about those superlative evenings spent at La Colombe (Luke’s previous restaurant). How we went back so many times and it just kept on getting better and better and better. I guess deep inside we still yearn to experience those magical evenings once more.
The two of us never eating at a LDR establishment again? That’s like telling Tiger you can’t play golf again. Telling Kelly you can’t surf J-bay again. Telling Paris this shop/venue unfortunately does not allow dogs in handbags!!! Shock! Horror!
Luke Dale-Roberts is one the most talented, if not the most talented chef in South Africa (in my humble opinion). Having previously boasted about the fact that my IQ is (thankfully) above 70, I also have to accept the fact that losing our patronage would probably not concern Luke or negatively affect his establishment, or sorry, it’s now actually establishment(s). See Luke, some free marketing, I really did like you! But as painful as it might be for us to accept, loyalty only gets us that far.
So it is a sad goodbye, but a goodbye none the less. Thanks for the memories Mr LD-R, but a fine dining world awaits and we simply cannot wait two months!
A memorable Valentine's Day lunch | By Jacques | Wednesday, 15 February 2012
Had a memorable lunch at the Test Kitchen yesterday, with very dear friends, and will certainly go there again. We had mains and deserts, with the pork belly main that looked and tasted superb. The fish main, with a very mild curry sauce, was also good, but not as good as the pork belly. But then I'm not really a fish eater. Portions were on the small side, but fine for lunch. And the chocolate desert, a chocolate cylinder with a bit of berry sorbet and other trimmings, was very, very good. Service was efficient and friendly, and the place is nice and un-stuffy for a fine dining establishment.
Passing the Test with flying colours | By Denis | Sunday, 24 July 2011
Have gone to The Test Kitchen with high expectations, we certainly were not disappointed. Food was of the highest standard, although I found the presentation of the starters a little fussy, which fortunately did not detract from the taste sensation. Well balanced wine list with a reasoanble selection of wines by the glass.
A surprise dinner at The Test Kitchen. | By Hayley | Thursday, 26 May 2011
I knew something sneaky was going on when I returned home after Christmas and to be honest, had half suspected what had been planned. I don’t think I’m a very difficult person to please and the things I love aren’t terribly hidden by my overly loud and opinionated outbursts of joy, usually accompanied by bouncing, squealing and blog post writing. So I was not surprised but thoroughly delighted when our taxi headed for the biscuit mill that evening, knowing that I was in all likelihood about to experience Cape Towns newest and arguably now, best restaurant.
Luke Dale Roberts has earned his reputation from working at La Colombe. Probably the most internationally recognised restaurant in Cape Town, if not all of Africa – it was voted 12th in the world in the San Pellegrino restaurant awards, which counts the Fat Duck (probably my most desired eatery) in its highest ranks. Luke Dale Roberts has now decided to create his own venture in the form of the Test Kitchen situated at the already renowned and trendy Old Biscuit Mill. The idea of the restaurant screamed perfect at me from the second I wandered in one saturday morning. I already love the mill and its old architecture and the kitchen itself is in the centre of the restaurant – satisfying my culinary curiosity and definitely saying something about the confidence which Luke places in this team of chefs to produce great quality food under the critical eyes of those about to recieve it. They also operate a tasting menu with wine pairing – lots of small dishes, each with a specially chosen South African wine. So needless to say I was in love with the place before we even set foot in the door that night! But would it live up to my expectations?
I don’t count myself as a food critic in any way, I very much doubt I have a hugely refined palate and anyone who’s seen me cook knows I’m no perfectionist. But in my honest, food appreciating opinion – I ate the best meal I’ve ever had. The service was impeccable – a great explanation was given about the menu options and we were offered the kitchen cocktail – a fabulous drink of gin soaked watermelon topped with champagne. Before selecting our food we also had free taster of a mushroom sushi special – loved by everyone, even Ben, who is convinced mushrooms only grow in hell.
We opted for the 5 course tasting menu with wine pairing. 3 starters, 1 main, 1 dessert and individually paired wines for R600. First up for me was Beetroot mousse, slow cooked baby beets, lemon and thyme puree, horseradish and mixed nut crumble, fennel confit and puff shards – paired with a glass of Constantia Uitsig Chardonnay Unwooded. All plates that arrived at our table looked so pretty, it felt pretty sacrilegious to destroy them! Each flavour involved could be picked out from the description of each dish whilst simultaneously complimenting each other. I really liked the beetroot dish – despite having no meat, it sang with flavour and was one of my favourites from the night. Next up was Quail in three ways, langoustine, liquorices jus, miso, corn and ginger emulsion, lime gremolata with Newton Johnson Chardonnay. I like to try new things and this seemed like a great opportunity to see the best made of quail – a totally founded assumption as this was spectacular, with the liquorice flavour particularly interesting. As my final starter I had the Asian Beef Tataki with Constantia Uitsig semillon – again absolutely wonderful with the beef soft and full of flavour. Unfortunately the lamb tongue with scallops and elephant garlic had run out…I guess a return visit will be in order for this
My main course involved me addressing some ethical issues I have with foie gras. This is not something I particularly approve of, due to the health issues and cruelty involved in fattening goose/duck livers to that extent. However I really wanted the pan seared duck breast and had to see if foie gras was worth the fuss which is made about it. The Pan seared duck breast, cashew nut and turnip purée, mineola and jasmine glaçage, pan seared foie gras and confit duck sushi with a glass of AA Badenhorst Red Blend was actually one of the more disappointing dishes of the evening. Don’t get me wrong – it was beautiful but just not as mind blowing – I expected slightly more cooked and tender duck with crispier skin and the foie gras, although nice, was not something I would be willing to make an ethical compromise for. The confit duck sushi was one of the stand alone aspects of any dish I had that night – fantastic, better than actual sushi for sure! I also tried a little bit of the pork belly and beef fillet with milk stout risotto mains…make that another 2 trips I will have to make back to The Test Kitchen
After mains we were presented with a delightful Amuse-bouche of Apple sorbet, gin and tonic jelly and shiso cress. Perfectly refreshing and I do love gin. Unfortunately they had also sold out of my preferred dessert choice – White wine poached pear and sorbet, chocolate fondant liquorice mousse, cold filter coffee jelly with Joostenberg Chenin Blanc. So I had the Tomato and Mozzarella: Cape gooseberry, vanilla and pepper syrup, Stracciatella, goat yoghurt snowballs with Quoin Rock Vine Dried Sauvignon Blanc. A very different style of dessert indeed – mixing one of my favourite starter salads (tomato and mozzarella) with sweet elements. The goat yoghurt snowballs were particularly outstanding.
Conclusively I wish I could eat at The Test Kitchen every day. At R600 for 5 courses and wine this is a pretty far away dream, but actually for the quality, I think this is good value for money. They also do cheaper lunch time variations of the dishes. I’m certain I will be back there just as soon as I can find an occasion worthy of the splendour.
Originally posted on my blog here:http://sciencesightseeingandsustenance.wordpress.com/2011/02/04/returning-to-the-joys-of-the-cape-glen-carlou-vrede-en-lust-rickety-bridge-and-the-test-kitchen/
Cape Town's hotest dinner ticket | By Michael | Tuesday, 19 April 2011
I could write volumes about my meal this evening, but my advice is just to go and experience for yourself. This kitchen is producing exceptional food (at a fraction of the cost of anywhere in Europe, America, Japan or China etc). This evenings 5 course wine pairing option offered memorable food and excellent wines in a relaxed and friendly environment. Fabulous home made butter, miso cream cheese, trout tartare, tuna tataki, veal tongue, scallops, foie gras, pickled quince, assiette of pork, confit of lamb shoulder, sweetbreads, a perfect chocolate fondant and pear sorbet and much more. Raats Chenin Blanc, Constantia Uitsig Semillon, Klein Constantia Riesling, Adam Mason Khwezi, Jordan Mellifera Riesling just some of the wine pairings. Not sure why I would want to eat anywhere else!
Yes, absolutely faultless | By Michael | Thursday, 07 April 2011
Two lunches here have been perfect. Lovely space and appointments. Friendly vibe and great service. All food outstanding (Beef Tataki and Pork Belly stellar) and unbeatable value. Warning: Highly addictive!
Unexpectedly Fawltless! | By Karine | Wednesday, 23 February 2011
The ambience might be surprising when looking for a "fine dining" experience, but once we were seating at our table, it all made sense.
From service, to Luke, to wine, to food an impeccable experience.
This is most definitely the top restaurant in Cape Town right now!
A diamond in the rough | By Charlotte | Tuesday, 15 February 2011
Driving the short hop from De Waterkant to Woodstock, my senses became increasingly alert. It was pushing 8pm, Strand Street buzzed with the throng of locals and tourists, the roads were jammed with cars; life was exactly as it should be a few days before Christmas - excited, frenetic.
Then as we passed the railway station, the crowds of people thinned, the cars became less frequent. Streetlamps flickered on. Out of my window the surrounds became more industrial, interspersed with run-down, empty looking bars. The sudden quiet was disconcerting and the desire to check the car doors overcame me. Click, Click – it’s locked. ‘Are you sure this is the right way?’ I asked Mr M.
‘It’s definitely on this road,’ he said, ‘I think’. Then it appears - the brick-red Old Biscuit Mill. Driving though the security gate we park up. I’m reassured the car is left here, not on the street; this isn’t the place to be wandering around at night.
Walking through the inner courtyard to the restaurant itself, however, is a pleasant shock. We pass businesses and a whole host of other shops. It feels buzzy, young, modern - a little oasis of creativity in an otherwise ‘fringey’ area.
The vibe is good. We are promptly greeted and asked if we have a reservation (would you really come to this neck of the woods on the off chance?) then shown to our table. We don’t have to go far, we’re right by the door.
The one-room affair, with an open kitchen in the middle, is all exposed brick, steel and wood. The shelves are filled with bits and bobs, it looks welcoming, slightly haphazard. Hats off to the designer, I think. Looking around, fellow diners include families spanning generations, young couples with wide eyes, an elderly group of four. There’s only 30 of us and no low hushed voices here - everyone is thoroughly enjoying themselves. A stuffy, pretentious restaurant this ain’t.
Then the menu. I was expecting great things – and it didn’t disappoint. My first choice, a perfect picture of trout tartare was exquisite. The acidity of green apple cut through any oiliness....the miso-cured aubergine a delight. Time to roll up my sleeves, this was serious stuff. Mr M went silent when trying the beetroot mousse. That’s a good thing.
Next, linefish with rock shrimp – perfectly cooked and pork belly for Mr M. Can I try a piece? I ask. Too late – it’s all gone.
I visit the bathroom. Not in the building – across the courtyard down some stairs. Is it shared with other businesses in the daytime? It feels a bit of a schlep, but maybe I’m being lazy. Still I’m not sure it’s an easy hike for the older crew, particularly when wet.
Mr M isn’t one for desserts but the temptation proved too much. The apple sorbet with gin and tonic jelly for him – I had tomato and mozzarella – cape gooseberry, goat yoghurt snowballs. ‘You always go for the weird option,’ he says.
For sure this dish wouldn’t be for everyone. It goes against everything you think a dessert should be, but then you go with it and it’s fun, different. A signature dish perhaps? And I can still remember the taste of those slightly sour but distinctly more-ish yoghurt balls.....
Our meal cost a R345 each for three courses- reasonable, we thought, considering the fantastic food voyage we’d enjoyed. The main cooking of the evening done and dusted, we saw chef Luke Dale Roberts grab several beers and pass them to all his kitchen crew. They cracked open the bottles as we walked out, already planning our return for the gourmand menu. Cheers guys, you well and truly deserve it.
Pass with flying colours | By Casper | Thursday, 20 January 2011
We could not get an evening booking for the next 2 weeks, so we walked in for lunch after a delicious / fantastic / special coffee treat at Espresso lab at The Biscuit Mill (thank you Vuyo and Jeremy). What I really liked about The Test Kitchen is the small size layout adjacent to a working kitchen buzzing with what could have been movie characters. The blond (She could also have been casted in The Girl with the Dragon tattoo)with attitude, the youngster at the Grill, the intellectuals behind the island operating table, The Asian with German focus and the quality controller at the front with one HB pencil in the side pocket on his arm. In what seemed an introverted Luke Dale, measuring and weighing stuff, in and out and not too involved with the lunch operations. The imperfect inside is really appealing, some crates on shelves, stuff in the window, exposed plugs, ugly modern till as centre piece, etc. It feels like a working kitchen, and adds to the authentic feel of the place. Wow! for the Asian Style Beef Tataki (R60 starter), wow! x 2 for the Vegetarian Tempura Roll with shitake mushrooms (R50 starter), pickled ginger and coriander, and another wow! x 2 for the Trout Tartare with green apple, lime, creme fraische, miso cured aubergine (OMG) and creamy miso dressing (R75 starter). They have mastered the art of subtle flavors and tastes, nothing in your face or overwhelming, a real poetic balance of fragrances. For main course we had Pan Fried Beef Fillet with butternut and pea risotto and cracked black pepper "cafe au lait" (R130). The sauce (can I call it that!)was incredible, such simple mastery, never to forget. The risotto, very disappointing indeed, "mushy and overcooked", no "lava like flowing" and no chance to sense the texture of the rice itself. Tasty risotto stock and flavour, but either pre-cooked or someone with no understanding of risotto cooked it for lunch. French fries might be a much safer option for lunch menu. Wood Fired Pork belly with asian greens, roasted baby potatoes and black bean dressing (R85) was a great balance of very well cooked pork belly with a light, pure and "clean sauce". The sauce lifted what could sometimes be a "heavy" dish to something I could have had 4 plates of, without losing any soul of the dish. I am not sure where the name of the dish come from, the journey of my pork seemed from slightly pre-cooked to poached to quick gas grilled to plate. As desert we shared a Selection of Sorbets (R30). We will never be that stupid again and felt to embarrassed to ask the waiter for another one as he warned as twice before we ordered. A pity that the glasses of champagne and Pinot Noir were not close to the right temperatures, annoying, but the food made up for that. I sincerely hope one can still find a seat without booking well in advance in future, as I reckon The Test kitchen will soon be in the top 10 Cape Town restaurants. Service is friendly and real (although we waited 15 minutes for our bill over lunch time). Cannot wait to go back.
It may be called the Test Kitchen, but this is the real deal | By Motor | Monday, 17 January 2011
the best meal I've eaten in cape town for over a year. Foie gras is sublime, pork belly can't be faulted, if i could lick the plate I would've. Cheese platter for dessert is excellent. I'll be back and back and back...